Monday, July 22, 2013

Where do you come from?

We do not “come into” this world; we come out of it, as leaves from a tree. As the ocean “waves,” the Universe 'peoples.' Every individual is an expression of the whole realm of Nature, a unique action of the total Universe.
-Alan Watts

Inside all of us lies a hidden history, the story of an immense journey told by our DNA. Deoxyribonucleic Acid is the biochemical molecule at the heart of the reproduction of all life, plants as well as animals. And since the discovery of its structure in 1953, scientists have pieced together the epic narrative of how human beings populated our planet.

Where do you come from?

"Cuimhnichibh air na daoine bho'n d'thainig sibh." ("Remember the people whom you come from." -Old Gaelic Proverb)


Some years ago I was persuaded to do a yDNA test for genealogical reasons. The primary object was to validate a Garvie family tradition that the Garvies of Perthshire were indeed descendants of John Garbh Maclean of Coll. I was curious. What did my yDNA tell me about my own "long journey"?

Like countless generations before me, I have been consumed by the questions, "Where have I come from? Why am I here? Why now?" I have approached these questions in previous blogs but I felt it was time to tackle the topic again.

When I first read the introduction to Bill Bryson's, A Short History of Nearly Everything, I was transfixed reading the paragraph where he says...

"Not only have you been lucky enough to be attached since time immemorial to a favored evolutionary line, but you have also been extremely - make that miraculously - fortunate in your personal ancestry. Consider the fact that for 3.8 billion years, a period of time older than the mountains and rivers and oceans, every one of you forebears on both sides has been attractive enough to find a mate, healthy enough to reproduce, and sufficiently blessed by fate and circumstances to live long enough to do so. Not one of your pertinent ancestors was squashed, devoured, drowned, starved, stuck fast, untimely wounded, or otherwise deflected from its life's quest of delivering a tiny charge of genetic material to the right partner at the right moment in order to perpetuate the only possible sequence of hereditary combinations that could result - eventually, astoundingly, and all to briefly - in you."

I don't think anybody has said it better than that! Hence my interest in my ancestry and genealogy.

Close Genealogy
This much I knew of my paternal line with a certain degree of confidence: I was born in Ladysmith, Natal South Africa. My father was born in Johannesburg. His father, my grandfather, in Knysna. His father, my great grandfather, came from Aberdalgie in Perthshire, Scotland. His ancestors in turn, I learnt, came from Perth, Kinnoull, and Scone. The further back I went in time the more did my ancestral history merge into tradition and legend and increasingly, the mists of myth.


Perthshire tradition had it that the Garvies were descended from John Garbh, seventh MacLean of Coll, through one of his sons, probably John of Totronald.   This son was wounded at the Battle of Inverkeithing in 1651, and did not return to Coll. His three sons (or grandsons) rented Upper Balgarvie, Lower Balgarvie, and Mill of Balgarvie in the parish of Scone, Perthshire from the Earl of Mansfield. Their descendants were tenants of Muirtown, Haggis Hall and several other farms near Perth.
(According to a letter from J C Garvie Macleod to the editor  of  the Oban Times, Spenthorn, West Park, Leeds. Date unknown. Also see A E Garvie, Memories and Meanings of My Life, 15.)

In Agents of Change, Scots in Poland 1800-1918 by Mona Kedslie McLeod (Tuckwell Press ISN#1 86232 081 0 ) page 116 we find...

"The Garvie brothers were descended from the Macleans of Coll. Backing the wrong side in the first Jacobite Rising of 1689, they forfeited their lands, adopted their nickname 'garbh', the Gaelic for rough or strong, and moved to Perthshire in search of a living. By the end of the eighteenth century Perth had become one of the centres of the developing linen industry and was enjoying a building boom..."

To date I had not found historical genealogical records to confirm this. I still wanted to know where I came from! So I resorted to DNA analysis. My yDNA Haplogroup turned out to be: R-M207 Subgroup: R1b1b2-M269


Y-chromosome DNA (yDNA) is a type of DNA that is only carried by men and is inherited directly from their fathers. Men who share a common paternal ancestor will have virtually the same yDNA, even if that male ancestor lived many generations ago. Theoretically then, sooner or later, as more data becomes available and more matches come to light I should be able to deduce whether there are Garvie links to the Hebrides and specifically to the Isle of Coll or not. Was it just accident that in a way I had come geographically full cycle and now stay where the last of the lairds of Coll died?...

Coll was home to a branch of the Clan Maclean for 500 years, not all of which were peaceful. In 1590 the Macleans of Duart invaded their cousins on Coll with the intention of taking the island for themselves. A battle was fought at Breachacha Castle where the Coll clan overwhelmed the Duarts, chopped off their heads and threw them in the stream, which is still known as "the stream of the heads". The Macleans of Coll retained their baronial fief and Castle of Breachacha until 1848 when Alexander Maclean of Coll emigrated to Natal, South Africa where he died unmarried.

This more distant biological journey in time is as interesting and fascinating as that of my immediate documented ancestry. We carry within us the genetic material and possibly coded memories that go back to creation itself!

Deep Genealogy
When the last Ice Age began to abate ~13,000 years ago and living conditions slowly improved across Europe, localized populations migrated from west Asia R1b1b2-M269 moved primarily throughout western Europe, creating opposite geographic distributions which are still evident today. R1b1b2-M269 is found at very high frequencies (50-80%) throughout western Europe particularly the Celtic populations in Ireland, Wales, and Scotland, especially the Hebrides. Geneticists are pretty sure about the broad details of this remarkable migration of Celts. It is reasonably well documented for instance in Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haplogroup_R1b_(Y-DNA) and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haplogroup_R1b_(Y-DNA)#R1b1a2_.28R-M269.29

Even Deeper Genealogy
Haplogroup R is defined by a DNA marker known as M207. Everyone who carries this marker today descends from a common paternal ancestor who lived about 30,000 years ago in west Asia. To date, over thirty subclades of haplogroup R have been identified, of which, R1a1-M17 and R1b1b2-M269 (historically called R1b3) are the most well described. Both of these subgroups are indicators of European ancestry with haplogroup R1a1-M17 most representative of Eastern Europeans and R1b1b2-M269 most characteristic of Western Europeans. Originating in the regions of modern day Turkey I saw correlations with the Keltoi and the diaspora of nations alluded to in Genesis and Josephus.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Further back, as members of the human family, all people living today can trace their earliest paternal ancestors to populations that lived approximately 100,000 years ago in eastern Africa and possibly southern Africa described as the "Cradle of Humankind"  where as providence had destined I would spend a number of years of my life working probing the night skies tracking spacecraft. These early humans became spread throughout the African continent, and beginning ~50,000 years ago, a series of complex migrations moved them out of Africa into regions of Asia and beyond to eventually populate every major area of the world.

Very Deep Genealogy
Some have suggested there might have been, startling as it may sound, an inter-galactic intervention at some time in the distant past or, possibly occurring all the time! Molecular biologists have been perplexed by segments of DNA that appear to be older than the Earth itself suggesting an origin beyond our Solar System.

Dr. Francis Crick,  Nobel Prize Winner and one of the discoverers of the DNA molecule suggests in his book, Life Itself: Its Origins and Nature (1981), that  primordial life was shipped to Earth in "spaceships" of some kind. Crick makes this startling proposition: "Life did not evolve first on Earth; a highly advanced civilization became threatened so they devised a way to pass on their existence. They genetically-modified their DNA and sent it out from their planet on bacteria or meteorites with the hope that it would collide with another planet. It did, and that's why we're here."

Terming his model "Directed Panspermia", Crick suggested that a "spaceship" carrying "large samples of... microorganisms" was sent to the Earth billions of years ago by an extraterrestrial civilisation - either as an experiment, preparation for colonisation or a genetic Noah’s Ark of some sort. (Crick, F. H. C., and Orgel, L. E. "Directed Panspermia", Icarus, 19, 341 (1973), quoted in David Darling’s Encyclopedia of Astrobiology, Astronomy, and Spaceflight)

Zecharia Sitchin, at the other extreme, suggests a much later Mesopotamian intervention based on his reading of Sumerian texts and the first eleven chapters of Genesis, speculating in his Divine Encounters: A Guide to Visions, Angels and Other Emissaries and elsewhere, that humans were biologically engineered about 6000 years ago. Sitchin's views, though no less extreme than Crick's, are generally disregarded by the scientific community but have become popular among the general public as evidenced by the unusual demand for his numerous writings.

Sumerian Version: Ningishzidda, Enki and Ninmah create Adamu

It is speculated by both rational scientists and mavericks that our DNA could be encoded with messages from these other civilizations. Ancestral memories par excellence, beyond our wildest dreams, could be encoded in our very DNA. Unknown cosmic entities may have programmed our genetic make-up so that when we reached a certain level of intelligence, we would be able to access this information, and they could therefore "teach" us about ourselves, and how to progress. (For more about so-called "Junk DNA" see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junk_DNA. On "DNA Activation" see http://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1303/1303.6739.pdf.)  Human DNA appears to be a lot more pliable (eg.  http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-21091066) and mysterious (eg. the DNA Phantom Effect http://www.thescienceforum.com/biology/1144-dna-phantom-effect.html) than previously thought.
Photo: NASA

Though cautious in their conjectures and conclusions, exobiologists are now more and more convinced that not only could microorganisms proliferate throughout creation but that it is equally possible that actual alien life forms might have traveled from other worlds to Earth! The Universe could be teeming with life. Celestial life! Retired Senator John Glenn and former Astronaut once cryptically remarked...

Back in those glory days.... Some people asked....were you alone out there? We never gave the real answer, and yet we see things out there, strange things, but we know what we saw out there. And we couldn't really say anything. The bosses were really afraid of this, they were afraid of the War of the Worlds type stuff, and about panic in the streets. So we had to keep quiet. And now we only see these things in our nightmares or maybe in the movies, and some of them are pretty close to being the truth" (NBC TV 6th March 2001).

Potent words! Tongue in cheek? A Freudian slip? An intentional admission?  (See http://www.enterprisemission.com/glenn.htm) Or are we standing on the very Threshold of an exciting new era, the Kingdom of Heaven itself? I would not be surprised! In fact, we always have!

At times I had to tread
Where not a star was found
To lead or light me, overhead;
Nor footprint on the ground.

I toiled among the sands
And stumbled with my feet;
Or crawled and climbed with knees and hands,
Some future path to beat.

-Gerald Massey, The Natural Genesis.

©Colin G Garvie HomePage: http://www.garvies.co.za

Thursday, July 18, 2013

The Lost Documents of Coll

The Lost Documents of Coll
[Hint: Increase Page View pressing Ctrl+ or Ctrl- to reduce it]

One hundred and fifty years after disappearing, rare and valuable documents of a Hebridean clan have been brought back to Scotland. When the island of Coll was sold in 1856, the Macleans, the lairds of Coll, were scattered across the globe. Recently, a large group of their family papers turned up in South Africa, and were acquired by Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, who lives in Breacachadh Castle on Coll in the Inner Hebrides.
-National Archives of Scotland, 5th June 2007

Synchronicity is an ever present reality for those who have eyes to see.
-Carl Jung

Macleans of Coll Crest Badge

Alexander Maclean passed away in 1875. Juliet Maclean Windham left Natal in 1884 and died in 1909. That did not mean that their connections with South Africa suddenly came to an end. Some of the children remained or returned to South Africa. If anything the mystery of the Coll family deepened and became even more intriguing. Shortly before I embarked in all seriousness in my search for the grave of Alexander Maclean, news broke that Clan Maclean of Coll documents that had strangely disappeared, had miraculously come to light in Port Elizabeth, South Africa! How these documents came to be in Port Elizabeth of all places is a story that is yet to be told by the custodians of these incredibly interesting papers.

The astonishing story of the "Long-lost clan papers brought back to Scotland after 150 years" can be read on the website of the National Archives of Scotland (NAS) at http://www.nas.gov.uk/about/070605.asp. The disappearance and recovery of the rare Coll papers is a story so amazing that I can hardly not draw attention to it. It too is replete with personal serendipities and synchronicities such as we observed in the accounts of Alexander Maclean and Juliet Maclean.

Genealogists Colin and Eleanor Garvie at the National Archives of Scotland, Edinburgh

I first became aware of the lost clan documents in the course of a discussion on the Maclean Forum in early August 2007. John Mclean emailed and assisted me considerably with information that I did not have....

Hello Colin

I read your letter with interest as I too am descended from the Coll family, though way back. Whilst not having any specific information on Alexander, I am inclined to believe that he may have emigrated to South Africa purely for financial reasons. The family were in a dire financial situation when he emigrated in 1849. The family mansion and estate "Druimfin House" on Mull was sold in 1846. The rest of the Estate was liquidated in 1855. The Laird Hugh moved to London and lived with his daughter Margaret until his death in 1861. Perhaps moving to South Africa with some assets prevented creditors from making a claim on it. Of course there must have been family or friends already there to make it attractive to him.

Another fascinating thing is the recent recovery of the Coll family papers which turned up in a house clearance sale in Port Elizabeth, Natal (sic). How did they get there and whose possession were they in? Nicholas Maclean-Bristol who bought them and took them back to Coll, claims his great-uncle saw them in 1897, so they presumably arrived in South Africa after that. The papers date from 1528-1927, so who added the later documents? 

There is some interesting reading in the Celtic monthly newspapers of the early 1900s where there is some dispute regarding who is the proper representative of the Coll family. The Macleans of Crossapol seem to believe their claim is correct, as do the Macleans of Gallanach. Interestingly one of the writers states that some people have an interest in Coll not being represented at all. There appears to be some truth in this, as 100 years on, it still has not happened.  The link to the index for these papers is http://www.electricscotland.com/history/celtic/index.htm ....

John 
-John McClean, Email Re: MacLeans:His: Alexander MACLEAN, 16th MacLean of Coll, Natal. 5 Aug 2007

That was some six weeks before I acquired Juliet Maclean's Natal Diaries and located Alexander Maclean's grave in the West Street Cemetery in Durban.

Believing the reader will want to read the full story here I simply want to reflect on some of the fascinating coincidences.

The lost Clan papers are returned to Scotland, as was my acquistion of Juliet's "Natal Diaries"...after 150 years. "One hundred and fifty years after disappearing, rare and valuable documents of a Hebridean clan have been brought back to Scotland." I am left asking whether this was pure chance that these documents came to light at precisely the time the grave of Alexander Maclean was also located again and that exactly 150 years after Juliet's emigration to the Colony of Natal? Here was a synchronicity of profound import to me.

"By chance a British dealer spotted the lost papers in a house clearance sale in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. It turned out that some Macleans had emigrated to Natal after the estate was sold." As a genealogist I shudder to imagine had those "lost papers", including a royal charter of 1528, not been spotted by a "British dealer"! The words "by chance" is enough to send shivers of anxiety and dread down  my spine had these priceless documents been dumped or had disappear as so often happens in clearance sales! What if had the dealer not chanced on the find?

Equally mysterious was the initial disappearance of these documents. "Fifty years ago, then a young officer in the King's Own Scottish Borderers stationed in Glasgow, [Coll historian, Nicholas Maclean-Bristol] asked the Scottish Record Office (as the National Archives of Scotland used to be known) to help him find the Maclean of Coll estate papers. They discovered a box in an Edinburgh solicitor’s office inscribed 'Maclean of Coll'. There was nothing in it. The papers had gone as salvage in the Second World War." An empty box! That raises so many questions. What had become of these papers? Who had taken them? When? And why? Salvaged?

One cannot overlook the timely presence and passion of Coll historian, Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, taking the initiative to research and restore Maclean history, revitalising an island community. The outcome has not only been the preservation of these vital historic documents but has also played an important role in the social quickening of young people's lives through his "Project Trust" that "has helped make the island one of the most dynamic communities in the Hebrides. The history of the Hebrides has... helped inspire a new generation in the United Kingdom to serve overseas and helped revive an island." In no small measure Nicholas Maclean-Bristol is fulfilling the collective dream and destiny of the Island of Coll. That too is synchronicity.

The National Archives of Scotland article both asks the question and hints at an answer: "What is the point of studying history?" Or genealogy, one may add. "Some people say that it is irrelevant to the 21st century. The tangible link between clan history and the modern life of an island provides one answer." The point of a synchronicity lies in that "tangible link" inherent in meaningful coincidental events!

References:
Synchronicity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synchronicity
Alexander Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/in-search-of-forgotten-grave-alexander.html
Juliet Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/juliet-alexa-maclean-1826-1909-personal.html
Lost Clan Documents: http://www.nas.gov.uk/about/070605.asp
McLeans of Coll Home Page: http://www.mcleanofcoll.com
Project Trust: http://www.projecttrust.org.uk/Us.php?p=5

Bookplate of Alexander McLean of Coll

©Colin G Garvie HomePage: http://www.garvies.co.za

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Juliet Alexa Maclean 1826 - 1909 - A Personal Serendipity

"A Delightful Escape"
Juliet Alexa Maclean 1826 - 1909
A Personal Serendipity

A Forest Scene near Umhlali

Alexander Maclean came to Natal on the Lalla Rookh, accompanied by his brother William. Their sister Juliet Alexa came to Natal on the Waldensian in Jan. 1858. She married Ashe Smyth Windham.
-Natal Historian, Shelagh Spencer

For years, genealogists have been pursuing elusive ancestors...perhaps, at least in some cases, those ancestors have actually been chasing us!
-Jane Fletcher Fiske, FASG, Foreword to Henry Z Jones Jr, More Psychic Roots, Further Adventures in Serendipity & Intuition in Genealogy.

Why do some of us genealogists have....seemingly nonrational experiences?  ....such topics as synchronicity (events that happen simultaneously with no apparent causal connection but with deep significance for those who experience them); numeracy (the mathematical probability of having a connection with any person you may happen to meet); intuition (a seeming sixth sense that a record will appear where it may or may not belong); genetic memory (the possibility that we inherit from our forebears some of the facts about our heritage)... You may not find a satisfying answer at the end of every explanatory avenue, but the very least you owe yourself, to your ancestors, and to your descendants is to investigate each one.
-Helen Hinchcliff, Foreword to Henry Z Jones Jr, Psychic Roots, Serendipity & Intuition in Genealogy.

oOo

Sometimes there crosses one's path in life a friend, a celebrity, a crisis, a book, even an obscure person from the past that is momentous, transforming, and life changing. It is almost as if such "happenstances" are destined and meant to be. There is no rational explanation for them.  Or as Dante once explained...

And passing through a street, she turned her eyes thither where I stood sorely abashed; and by her unspeakable courtesy...she saluted me with so virtuous a bearing that I seemed then and there to behold the very limits of blessedness... I parted thence as one intoxicated. (Quoted by John Sanford, The Invisible Partners, p.21)

That was how the chance encounter with Juliet Alexa Maclean seemed to me. It was as if it were a glimpse of Beatrice. Perhaps it was simply the schoolboy associations of her name that conjured up forgotten memories of "star cross'd lovers". It was after all Shakespeare's Juliet who asked, “What is in a name?”

A Zulu village near Umhlali, Natal

In my previous blog, mention was made of Chief Alexander's sister, Juliet Maclean. The story of how I came to learn about Juliet was in itself, for me personally, an intriguing one, coinciding with a crisis of faith that I was about to go through but unaware of its imminent significance. In no small measure she was pivotal, as if in my engagement with her story, she was meant to accompany me through my own impending Night Storm Voyage. It came about quite fortuitously and unexpectedly in the course of my search for Alexander's grave.

I record something of how it all unfolded in my Journal...

August  8, 2007 - Wednesday:

After attempting several obsolete addresses [enquiring after Alexander Maclean] I finally received an email from the University of KZN, Pietermaritzburg…
Dear Rev Garvie  Your query on the Maclean clan refers.  We do have the book "The Natal diaries of Mrs. Juliet Windham (nee Maclean), 1857-59, 1860-61 and 1866". You can borrow this book via interlibrary loans. Simply go to your local library and request it from us. As far as I am aware it is not available online.  Doing a quick search online I have not found anything on Alexander Maclean - it would need a good thorough search to find material.  Charles Rawden Maclean, 1815-1880 is quite well covered in our library - I am not sure of his relationship with the Macleans you are researching - if at all.  You are very welcome to visit and make use of our Library. Killie Campbell Africana Library in Durban is another good place to look: http://campbell.ukzn.ac.za/?q=node/42  Sorry that I have not been of more help  Margaret BassSubject LibrarianUniversity of KwaZulu-Natal (Pmb)
I was more than delighted. I had originally assumed from the entry in the Dictionary of South African Biography that these were possibly diaries of the son of Ashe Windham. Instead they turn out to be the diaries of Juliet MacLean, the sister of Alexander MacLean. I immediately went down to the Musgrave Library just a block away from work and was a little disappointed that I would need to go into the City Library to arrange the interlibrary loan. The Killie Campbell Library might be easier so I emailed the librarian there only to be given an old email address again. I tried another which seemed to have gone through. They might even have a copy of the diaries. I am hoping too that in their collection of newspapers they might have an obituary for Alexander MacLean. Also today after being referred to them I managed to find and order…
Warriors and Priests: History of the Clan Maclean, 1300-1570 by Nicholas Maclean-Bristol 
Clan to Regiment: 600 Years in the Hebrides 1400-2000 by Nicholas Maclean-Bristol 
So many little surprises seem to be coming together in this search for the MacLeans!

These "little surprises" were to turn into a startling, breath-taking life-change event!

The next reference to Juliet occurs a few days later...

August 12, 2007 - Sunday: 

....Ken and Eleanor G had yesterday gone to the Archives Depot in Pietermaritzburg and they kindly copied for me the estate papers for Ashe and Juliet Windham (nee MacLean) including a photo of Ashe Windham for which I was very grateful.

 Early Will of Juliet Windham


Then...

September 19, 2007 - Wednesday: 

I heard from the City Library that Juliet Windham’s Natal Diaries had arrived. Not a large book I started photocopying it for my own MacLean archives.

The "book" was a copy of the original typed manuscript. I started reading it a few days later. On September 29, 2007 - Saturday, I emailed Coll historian, Nicholas MacLean-Bristol,  in which I explained something of my excitement in acquiring the Natal Diaries...

Sir

I presume my earlier email has been forwarded on to you but just wanted to let you know that I did eventually receive a typed copy of Juliet Wndham, nee MacLean's Natal Diaries through Interlibrary Loan from the University of KwaZulu-Natal in Pietermaritzburg and reading it with great interest and delight.


What was exciting was that by sheer coincidence I received the Diaries on the 150th anniversary of Juliet leaving home and sailing on the 24th September 1857 to visit her brother "Alister" in Natal! That is the date of her first entry in this diary. What a remarkable synchronicity!


I still haven't located Alexander MacLean's grave here in Durban but I will keep looking.


Slainte!


Colin G Garvie


September 24, 2007:

I had not mentioned that the 24th was also the birthday of my wife, Sylvia Adam, who was of Clan Gordon descent. Furthermore, the coincidence of  an anniversary and a birthday forged a link between the two. The following day I sent an email off to the cousin who had copied the Windham papers for me…

Hi Eleanor

Did I tell you that I made a curious discovery? The diary of Juliet MacLean the sister of Sandy MacLean of Coll that I got arrived a few days before the 24th September, Sylvia's birthday. So what? you say. Well, she starts her diary sailing from England for Natal on the 24th September! Isn't that remarkable? No? Yes! 1857!!!! I get her diary on the 150th anniversary of her diary! Wow!


She starts....


It has long been a wish of mine dating from the days of childhood and the reading of Robinson Crusoe to know what it would be like to live far  away from civilization, and later on I have longed to live where there should be neither calling nor returning of calls, neither church nor clergymen. To live quite too far from thy church, as I would say....


I think I like this girl! A dram to the Maids of Coll!


Colin


Juliet  described it as "a delightful escape".The more I read the more fond I grew of Juliet. The intention was, of course, to glean information about her brother, Alexander "Alick" Maclean but the further I read, the more I admired this determined, independent Hebridean woman, "Jupiter's Child!"

Crashing Waves...No one Spoke a Word

Little did I then know that within days I too would be "leaving" the church disenchanted and disappointed in and by the ecclesiastical order, sailing, like Juliet, into what seemed were very stormy turbulent waters, "...waves seemed really 'mountains high.' I could not have believed it unless I had seen them, they kept coming up against us like great black walls, and it seemed as if each wave must come down right on top of us, and crash the masts, but instead of this on getting pretty near they always seemed to go under the ship... The noise of the wind was great and it was pretty dark, the waves seemed to get even larger. The sensation I experienced was that it was very frightful but that I was not frightened, as the sailors did not seem to be. No one spoke a word" (October 4th, 1857).

Therein was a parable for me. In a way, leaving the church, was for me "a delightful escape" too but which was like "great black walls" crashing down on me at times.

Night Skies...Dark Black Places

Once the skies cleared Juliet remarked on the night sky that were to become her canopy for the next, almost three decades ... "We are now halfway between South America and South Africa. I am disappointed in the 'Southern Cross.' It is not like one, more like a little kite, string and all. Megallan's clouds and Cape clouds are very pretty, made of stars but appearing to be a pair of small misty soft white clouds quite near each other. Also there is a queerlooking black place in the sky, and far from them, called by the sailors 'the entrance to Hell.'" (October 22nd, 1857)

A Church Gone Dumb

Juliet was an avid reader. One of the books she took with her and read while at sea was Thomas Carlyle's satire, Sartor Resartus. One place Carlyle writes...

...every conceivable Society, past and present, may well be figured as properly and wholly a Church, in one or other of these three predicaments: an audibly preaching and prophesying Church, which is the best; second, a Church that struggles to preach and prophesy, but cannot as yet, till its Pentecost come; and" third and worst, a Church gone dumb with old age, or which only mumbles delirium prior to dissolution. 
-Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus, "Church-Clothes"

Interrupted Solitude

For Juliet, life and church had become a "delirium". I also thought my church had “gone dumb with old age.” No one spoke a word. My church had lost its prophetic voice...gone dumb. Juliet sought new adventures, the need to assert herself and forge a new identity far away from her impoverished past. But escape the church, she could not. She had hardly gone ashore at Port Natal when there was the inevitable visit from the Colonial Chaplain, the Rev. Lloyd. Juliet travelled north and joined her brother at Umhlali hoping there to find the solitude she was seeking but...

...the Bishop had thought fit to get up church services and to send a clergyman to this place which is a great “sell” for me, as I had hoped to realise my old idea of happiness to live “far away beyond the reach of any church!” … The clergyman it seems is Archdeacon of Maritburg [Charles F Mackenzie later Bishop of central Africa], and only on the coast for a time. He lives on the Umhlali... Alick says he is sure I shall find them all worth knowing (15th January 1558 at Umhlali)...  Alick tells me the Archdeacon and his sisters are all good and agreeable and well worth knowing people. They are coming to see us. I am glad that they are good and do good, and that they are High Church. But alas for my anticipation for real solitude. What! Visitors after all and a church! (24th January 1858) ...The Archdeacon called....I thought to myself. “Now let us have it out. I shall say exactly what I think. I choose to be my real self and show that I believe that I have a right to my convictions as well as any Church Christian to his.” So we both spoke quite openly. I liked him, and find him, for a clergyman, rather reasonable. And I once even made him laugh... (1/2nd March 1858)

Nicholas MacLean-Bristol devotes a chapter and more to this remarkable Maclean woman, Juliet Alexa Maclean, in his monumental, From Clan to Regiment, which I heartily recommend. It should be on the shelves of every Highlander of Scottish descent!

Umgeni River on the way from Durban to Umhlali

On arriving in Durban, Juliet had made her acquaintance with St Paul's and the Rev. Lloyd. Juliet was far from escaping the church. Her brother Alexander encouraged her and nurtured those vital connections they had as youngsters on Coll. She eventually enjoyed a long standing friendship with Bishop John Colenso of Natal  and shared his liberal views. Her diaries describes life in the Colony with her husband and children. Her affection and longing for her brother, Alick, continued till his early death at the age of 47.

She found love in Natal and married Ashe Windham, the Magistrate of Greytown. Natal Historian, Shelagh Spencer, wrote: "Windham, who was educated at Eton and Trinity College, Cambridge, came to Natal with Bp Colenso, his former tutor. According to the Natal Witness of 26 Aug. 1859, Windham married Ms Maclean at his residence Bishopstowe on 19 Aug. 1859. They were married by Bp Colenso."

In 1861 Juliet and Alexander's father died. They visited home in 1862 but returned to Natal again. In 1867 her brothers Hugh and Willy died. In 1875 Alexander died of dysentery with Juliet nursing him. Juliet eventually returned to England with her husband in 1884 and died in 1909 three months after Ashe at the age of 84 in Norbury, Surrey. The Windhams left three children: Ashe, William, John, and Katherine Jane who was named after Ashe and Juliet's mothers.

Death Notice: Juliet Alexa Windham

Juliet's death was announced in "South Africa Magazine: Domestic Announcements, December 11, 1909"...

WINDHAM - At Norbury, Surrey, in her 84th year, Juliet Alexa WINDHAM, widow of the late Ashe WINDHAM, of Wawne, Yorkshire, and daughter of the late Colonel Hugh MACLEAN, Scots Guards, of Coll, Argyleshire. Cremation at Woking today (Saturday). Funeral train leaves private station, Necropolis Company, 121, Westminster Bridge Road, at 11:50 a.m.

oOo

Serendipity

Helen Hinchcliff speaks of  synchronicity, numeracy, intuition, and genetic memory. As I reflect on my encounter with Juliet Alexa Maclean I feel deeply affected by that experience...
  • "synchronicity (events that happen simultaneously with no apparent causal connection but with deep significance for those who experience them)": As described in my previous blog, "Search for a Forgotten Grave", the quest was accompanied by a number of serendipities and synchronicities. Receiving Juliet's Natal Diaries "out of the blue" at the time of the 150th Anniversary of the Diary was significant. That it also coincided with the September Equinox (Mabon 21-24 September) would have meaning to one of Celtic mind. Also being the birthday of Sylvia, my wife, the Juliet-Sylvia connection was serendipitous.
  • "numeracy (the mathematical probability of having a connection with any person you may happen to meet)": The odds that one should be presented with historic source material within days of its 150th Anniversary struck me as unusual and significant. The statistical probability might not be of much consequence to others in general but to me it had huge import.
  • "intuition (a seeming sixth sense that a record will appear where it may or may not belong)": That I had communicated at "just the right time" with a particular institution hoping to find further relevant information was both an obvious as well as unconscious act. I was seeking information relating to Alexander Maclean and to my surprise my attention was directed increasingly to Juliet Maclean.
  • "genetic memory (the possibility that we inherit from our forebears some of the facts about our heritage): Some call it "ancestral memory". I rather prefer describing it as "genetic resonance". I only had unsubstantiated family traditions to go on that there was a Garvie-Garbh-Maclean connection. Neither source documentation nor yDNA matching has to date yielded any confirmation that there is any substance to what might only be legend. It is more a "feeling" or an "affection", whether ancestral or simply association,  that somehow there exists a common connection between the two familiy branches. Nevertheles, the Garvies are a recognised Sept of Clan Maclean.
The question, "Why do some of us genealogists have....seemingly nonrational experiences?" remains. Safe to say that whoever Juliet and Alexander Maclean may be to me historically or Beatrice to Dante, they continue to chase us down the years with mystery and mystique surprising us with joy and happiness along the way!

oOo

Links:
Alexander Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/in-search-of-forgotten-grave-alexander.html
Juliet Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/juliet-alexa-maclean-1826-1909-personal.html
Lost Clan Documents: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-lost-documents-of-coll.html

Sources:
Many assisted me in this search and I want to acknowledge especially Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, Shelagh Spencer who was most helpful, Ken and Eleanor Garvie, the Staff of local Parishes and Libraries. Their generous help was much appreciated. Photos are from J Forsyth Ingram's, Colony of Natal, An Official Illustrated Handbook, 1895.

Journal of James Robertson, Sherriff Substitute at Tobermory 1844, Introduction to the Journal of James Robertson 1799-1876
Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, From Clan to Regiment.
Dictionary of South African Biography, Vol.V, Smith-Windham, Ashe

©Colin G Garvie HomePage: http://www.garvies.co.za

Thursday, July 11, 2013

In Search of a Forgotten Grave - Alexander Maclean of Coll

In Search of a Forgotten Grave
Alexander Maclean of Coll 1827-1875
A Personal Quest

Alexander, eldest son of Hugh of Coll, succeeded his father as representative of the descendants of John Garbh. He was tall and athletic, modest, and full of kindness.  He emigrated to South Africa in 1849.  He died at Umgeni, near Durban, on Sunday afternoon, July 11th, 1875. He was in the forty-seventh year of his age. He was succeeded in the chieftanship of the Macleans of Coll by his brother, John -Hector-Norman.
-Rev A. Maclean Sinclair, The Clan Gillean, 1899, p.383.


View from Coll

Family oral tradition had it that we, the Garvies, were descendants of the Macleans of Scotland. Scottish theologian, Alfred Ernest Garvie, in his auto-biography, Memories and Meanings of My Life, wrote...

After the defeat at Killiecrankie, the [Maclean] clansmen were scattered. Some of the Macleans settled in Perthshire, and assumed the name Garvie, which is found in a parish register in 1690; and is said to be derived from a Gaelic word garbh, meaning strong or rough. The Garvies in Perthshire claimed descent from Lachlan Maclean of Coll, and the Garvies in Ross-shire had a McLeod for ancestor. Three Garvies (John, James, and Patrick) settled at Balgarvie, which had already long borne that name.... (p.15). 

In a letter from J C Garvie Macleod to the editor of the Oban Times, (date unknown) it is said that the Garvies of Perthshire "are descended from John Garbh, seventh Maclean of Coll, through one of his sons, probably John of Totaronald." According to him, John Garbh was wounded at the Battle of Inverkeithing, Fifeshire (1651) and did not return to Coll. His three sons (or grandsons) rented Upper Balgarvie, Lower Balgarvie and the Mill of Balgarvie in the Perthshire, Parish of Scone from the Earl of Mansfield. Their descendants were tenants of Muirton, Haggis Hall and other farms near Perth.

My genealogical interest goes back to the early 1960s when, as a schoolboy, I first read about Alfred Ernest Garvie. Increasingly I became aware of my Scottish roots. In the course of time it also came to my attention that a Maclean chief lay buried in Africa somewhere. Highland families were in dire financial straits during the 1800s because of famine and so-called "clearances"  and had left the Hebrides and Highlands in large numbers to settle in the Colonies.

My quest began in real earnest when in 2004 cousins, Ken and Eleanor Garvie, afforded us an unforgettable trip to Mull and Iona,  the Maclean Islands.  I was not even aware of Coll which was to become the focus of my research. As I stood on the battlements of Duart Castle looking across the sea I pondered the pluck and plight of the Macleans. They were fighters to the end and stood true in battle and circumstance.  I returned home even more enthused. There were family roots to be researched and there was a grave to be found.



The Search Begins

Intrigued, I felt the need to acquaint myself with the histories of the Macleans of Scotland. I was fortunate to obtain copies of  JP Maclean's A History of the Clan MacLean and Rev. A Maclean Sinclair's The Clan Gillean. It was from John Patterson Maclean's history that I was first to learn about Chief Alexander Maclean (1849-1875)...

Alexander, sixteenth and last of Coll - Sliochd Iain Ghairbh - inherited in a remarkable degree the characteristics of his family, great benignity and kindliness of disposition, which made his forefathers among the most popular landlords of their day. In 1849, he emigrated to Natal, Africa, where he died, July 11, 1875, aged forty-seven. He was never married. In him the family of Coll, in the direct line, became extinct.

There was my first clue. I now had a name, a place, and a date.  Alexander Maclean died in Natal, South Africa in 1875. By this time, in 1991, I had myself been transferred to Durban in KwaZulu-Natal.

Maclean Sinclair was more specific as to where...

Alexander, eldest son of Hugh of Coll, succeeded his father as representative of the descendants of John Garbh. He was tall and athletic, modest, and full of kindness.  He emigrated to South Africa in 1849.  He died at Umgeni, near Durban, on Sunday afternoon, July 11th, 1875.

I was astonished. We lived just above the Umgeni Estuary in Durban! The question now arose, where was Chief Alexander Maclean laid to rest? His grave could not be in the nearby Stamford Hill Cemetery which was post-1875. Queries addressed to the Local History History Museum and the Killie Campbell Library  proved fruitless. I eventually, after considerable correspondence with historians, archivists, and churches, both local and abroad, found Alexander Maclean's Estate Papers in 2007. The search was only beginning!

The Estate Papers of Alexander Maclean

I was naturally curious and anxious to locate Alexander's grave.  It was suggested that I should direct my queries to the Anglican Church since, being a British Colony, the spiritual care of British settlers were overseen by the Church of England. He could be buried in the St Paul's Church burial ground, some suggested. I visited St Pauls hoping to find, if not a grave, then surely, a memorial of sorts. There was none. The original St Pauls had been destroyed by a fire.

The Bishop's Office in Pietermaritzburg yielded very little information. I then discovered that the Church of England burial ground had in fact been incorporated into the West Street Cemetery but was actually some distance from St Pauls itself. Initially I did not know this. I visited the West Street Cemetery several times. Unfortunately no record of such a grave could be found in the West Street Registers. This was deeply disappointing.  Records had previously been destroyed in a fire, I was told. Many hours scouting round the cemetery yielded no evidence of the Laird's final resting place. Some said part of the cemetery had made way for a freeway and possibly the grave did not exist anymore.

Fortunately, just as I was beginning to despair, I then located the Estate Papers for Alexander Maclean. These were lodged in the National Archives Depot in Pietermaritzburg! Not in Durban as I had expected. The Executor of his estate was none other than his brother-in-law, Ashe Windham of Greytown near Pietermaritzburg. Alexander's sister, Juliet, had also settled and married in Natal. I had not known that. Much to my delight, among the papers was a receipt for a grave plot that was eventually to lead me to that of Chief Alexander.

Durban Sept 30th 1875

Received if A S Windham Esq "Exor to the late Alexander McLean Esq" (by payment for Mr Thos. Drew Undertaker) the sum of Six Pounds six shillings for the purchase of a plot of ground in the St Pauls Church Cemetery - measuring 12 feet frontage in a straight line and next to Mrs Benningfields at the south end by eight feet wide - to be held in perpetuity for internments - subject to the Subs (?) and Regulations made from time to time - for the management of the said Cemetery.

As Witness my hand this day and year above written.

For the Minister & Churchwarden
of St Pauls Cemetery
G W Saker
Actin Sexton

There it was, St Pauls Cemetery! If I could locate the Benningfield plot it would then be relatively easy to find Alexander's grave.

Also among the Estate Papers was an invoice dated the 28th September 1875 from the Undertaker suggesting that the deceased had temporarily been interred in the vault of a Mr Lloyd.

To Cost of Ground 12ft x 8 £6 6 0
 " Buidling Brick Vault 8ft x4
 " Opening & Closing Mr Lloyds Vault
 " Removing body of the late Mr McLean to new Vault & etc  £25  - -

West Street Cemetery, Durban

With this information I returned to the West Street Cemetery Offices and with their kind assistance I soon located both the Benningfield and Lloyd plots. Much to my relief, these were recorded in their registers.

The Benningfield Family Plot

The Lloyd Family Plot

To the south of the Benningfield family plot was a lone, neglected grave with neither headstone nor inscription. It lay between the Benningfield and Lloyd graves. Could this be the grave? It was in a state of bad repair. Had it been vandalized or just severely weathered over the years?  I was hoping to find something more becoming of a Scottish Chief. My heart sank. Whose grave was this? Could the Cemetery Superintendent identify this grave? So many questions welled up within me. Had we found the missing grave?

The Unmarked Grave of Alexander Maclean
The Iron Railing of the Benningfield Plot casting its shadow
to the "south end" across the modest Celtic Grave

I hastened back to the Superintendent and enquired who was buried in Section 8, plot 24? Quickly the Superintendent found  old scrappy maps for the Church of England Section, Block 8 of the West Street Cemetery and there it was, no.24,  "Alex Macbean"!



For me, finding and then confirming the grave, was one of those rare "Eureka!" moments in my life.


From the Estate Records, I also knew that a monument was ordered for the tomb. Ashe Windham states...

...I have with the consent of the heirs of the said Alexander Maclean entered into a Contract with [...] Smith of Pietermaritzburg for the preparing and erecting a tomb stone to be placed over the grave of the said Alexander Maclean at a cost of Twenty eight pounds Sterling ...

The tombstone no longer exists. No picture of it has come to light. One can now only but imagine the design and inscription of the monument. Would it have really been ornate as I might have envisaged? Or did it simply record his name, his birth and death, and perhaps The Maclean crest and the words, “Sliochd Iain Ghairbh”?

I returned to the grave and stood there a long while, deeply affected, reflecting on the arduous discovery of this humble grave and the valiant and mysterious man who had been laid there to rest. As a minister I had many times recited the words, "from dust to dust". Never did those words seem more poignant than that day.

James Robertson (1799-1876) Sheriff Substitute, a Coll family friend was early impressed by the young Alexander Maclean who he fondly called "Alick". When he first met him he recorded in his Journal...

Saw young Coll for the first time and his brother John. The former is a handsome well grown youth of 16 or 17, near 6 feet high, quiet and modest. He is dark, round faced and black eyed. 

That was  the beginning of an abiding friendship that was cut short when the family left Coll in the mid-1840s, impoverished and destitute. The grim story is dramatically documented by Coll historian, Nicholas Maclean Bristol, in his monumental work, From Clan to Regiment. Alexander had emigrated and found himself north of Durban where he bartered beads for ngunis with the Zulu tribes. His father had always intended him to become a merchant but the older Coll would never have envisaged it in the Kingdom of the Zulus.

On his death, an anonymous correspondent wrote...

A paragraph in the Natal Colonist gives intelligence of the death of Alex. Maclean, Esq, of Coll, on 11th July [1875],at the early age of 47.... the subject of this short memoir emigrated to Port Natal in 1849. On two or three occasions he revisited England, and thirteen months ago spent a short time in his native district of the Highlands. Though so long absent and so young when he left, he yet retained the most lively recollections of his old acquaintances and associates, who can never forget the pleasure it seemed to afford him to meet them again, nor the eager grasp of his hand and the sparkle of his eye, lighted up by sincere affection, when they chanced to meet. To those who knew Mr Maclean from boyhood as some of us did, when the slim gentle youth headed our many deer-hunting parties on his father's estates, accompanied by his younger brother — now also no more — and our boating expeditions in quest of wild fowl, &c — to such, certainly, his outward appearance was much changed - a tropical climate had ripened that youth into manhood of the most prepossessing appearance. That splendid figure, manly form, straight as a pine, a man among a thousand struck us with admiration, and still more so when we found the same gentle, mild, unassuming, affectionate disposition that distinguished his youth.

The obituary in the Natal Colonist read...

The deceased gentleman was one of our oldest colonists, and the predecessor of Mr T Reynolds in the proprietorship of Oaklands, Umhlali. He was the eldest member of a very old Highland family, a considerable traveller, having visited South America and British Columbia. He was also one of the earliest visitors to the Diamond Fields, but he invariably returned to Natal after these more or less protracted absences. One of the gentlest yet bravest of men, Mr Maclean was thoroughly esteemed by all who knew him. He was not only a considerable traveller, but was an enthusiastic hunter and sportsman, and his commanding and powerful frame gave no token of so early an end. He was not married, and his only near relative in Natal is Mrs AF Windham, who was near him when he died; The funeral took place on Monday morning in the burial ground of the Church of England, and was attended by many of the friends of the deceased, whose loss will be most sincerely deplored by them. Archdeacon Lloyd read the offices of the church.
-Nicholas Maclean Bristol, From Clan to Regiment, p. 565

Parish Registers, 1850-2004 South Africa, Natal, Durban,
St Paul Burials 1849-1925 Image 87 of 333 No.870

A deep satisfaction came over me. Whether Alexander Maclean was a distant cousin - Sliochd Iain Ghairbh - mattered little to me in that moment. I simply felt an indescribable affinity and connection to this remarkable, enigmatic man. We had a common connection with the land of our forbears. My own broken life was represented now by this lonely, weathered grave. A wave of awe came over me. I left the cemetery both curious and perplexed, wondering, questioning why Providence should have led me to this unpretentious, unmarked grave, mysteriously drawn to it by an inexplicable compulsion?

Scotland our Mither --- this from your sons abroad,
Leavin' tracks on virgin veld that never kent a road,
Trekkin' on wi' weary feet, an' faces turned fae hame,
But lovin' aye the auld wife across the seas the same.
...
Scotland our Mither --- since first we left your side,
From Quilimane to Cape Town we've wandered far an' wide;
Yet aye from mining camp an ' town, from koppie an' karoo,
Your sons sicht kindly, auld wife, send hame their love to you.

-Charles Murray
oOo


Links:
Alexander Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/in-search-of-forgotten-grave-alexander.html
Juliet Maclean: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/juliet-alexa-maclean-1826-1909-personal.html
Lost Clan Documents: http://ichthyscybernetics.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-lost-documents-of-coll.html

Sources:
Many contributors assisted me in this search and acknowledge especially Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, John McLean, Ken and Eleanor Garvie, the Staff of local Museums, Archive Depots, Libraries, and Cemeteries. Their generous help was much appreciated.
Journal of James Robertson, Sherriff Substitute at Tobermory 1844
James Irvine Robertson, Introduction to the Journal of James Robertson 1799-1876
JP Maclean, A History of the Clan MacLean.
Rev. A Maclean Sinclair, The Clan Gillean. http://archive.org/details/clangilleanwithp00sinc
Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, From Clan to Regiment.
Nicholas Maclean-Bristol, Warriors and Priests, The History of the Clan Maclean 1300-1570.
McLeans of Coll Home Page, http://www.mcleanofcoll.com
Celtic Magazine http://www.electricscotland.com/history/celtic/index.htm

©Colin G Garvie HomePage: http://www.garvies.co.za